There are several common health problems that may affect your dog during their lifetime, hence why so many opt to take out dog insurance cover. Most of the common illnesses or ailments are not life threatening. If you take measures to prevent or treat the ailments as soon as they occur; your dog is less likely to become seriously ill from these conditions. Below are some of the most common pet ailments that can affect your canine companion.
Arthritis - Arthritis is a common problem and one in five dogs over the age of seven usually has some form of arthritis. If you notice a change in your dog’s daily routine or your dog starts to display signs of discomfort while exercising or when out for a walk you should take him to see your vet. There isn’t a cure for arthritis, however, there are treatments and medications that can help your dog be more comfortable and allow them to stay active.
Arthritis can affect your pets hips, shoulders, joints, neck and back. There are two kinds of arthritis. Degenerative joint disease, also called osteoarthritis, is caused by stress on the joints. Inflammatory Joint Disease is usually caused by an infection. Some of the symptoms include loss of weight and fever. The most common causes of this condition is ticks and bacteria.
Worms – There are many types of worms your pet could become infected with. The more common worms are Flatworms, Tapeworms, heartworms, hookworms, whipworms and lungworms. Worms are very common in dogs and are easily treated. Did you know that a puppy can be born with worms if their mother is infected. An adult dog can get worms from being bitten by fleas, ticks and even mosquitoes. While out playing in the parks they can easily pick up worms by eating or coming in to contact with dead birds, eating frogs and most commonly dog and cat feces. They could even share toys with an infected animal and pick up intestinal worms in this manner. It will not always be apparent that your dog or cat has worms, some worm infected pets show no symptoms initially while other worms cause diarrhea, weight loss and abdominal pain. Possibly one of the best indicators you’re your dog or cat has worms is when they show a lack of energy and motivation to exercise. There are many different treatments ask your vet which one is right for your dog. Worms are not life threatening if you treat them properly. If you set up a regular worming programme you will not have to worry about your dog becoming infected. Most worm infections do not pass to humans, however some do. Ask your vet for more information if you are concerned about your family pet passing worms to your kids.
Anxiety Disorders - Anxiety Disorders are fairly common and recognising them and getting the proper treatment is key to keeping your dog healthy. An anxiety disorder can affect the dog’s emotional and physical health. Some things that dogs are afraid of are things like thunder or fireworks. Sensitive dogs even become anxious when their owners raise their voices unexpectedly. A dog can also suffer from separation anxiety when left alone for long periods of time. Studies have shown that this may be a genetic trait in some specific breeds of dogs. Some of the breeds include, Great Danes, German Shepherd, Jack Russell Terriers and Dalmatians. Some of the symptoms a dog may have include, barking, pacing, urinating in the house and licking themselves excessively. When a dog is in acute distress they may try to hide under a bed.
Your vet can run tests to see exactly what is wrong with your dog. Some of these symptoms could also be associated with other ailments. Once the vet has determined it is anxiety, then they will give you medications or treatments for your specific dog. A dog with anxiety disorders does not deal well with change so you should try to establish a daily routine for your pet. If you maintain a regular schedule of feeding, playtime and walking the dog will be much calmer.
Canine Allergies - Canine Allergies are very common in dogs. Dog allergies usually affect the skin and cause itching and a rash while other common allergic reactions may cause you pet to sneeze and or wheeze. Coughing is actually quite common too. There are three major causes of allergies in dogs. They are insects, with fleas being the most common and airborne allergens such as pollen, grass and mold. The third type is an allergic reaction to certain foods or medicines. Regularly airing your pets bed sheets and kennel, dusting and removing any mould will greatly help reduce the chances of common allergies from flaring up.
A dog will not always display an allergic reaction immediately after exposure; there is often a delayed reaction. One common symptom of allergies is if your dog constantly licks its paws. Other symptoms include face rubbing, head shaking and belly licking. A dog can also get hives from an allergic reaction and they usually disappear within 24 hours. You should consult your vet when you think your dog may be allergic to something. They will suggest the proper treatments. It is possible to have your dog tested for allergies if you are concerned. That way you will be able to prevent some allergies from occurring. Depending on what your dog is allergic to will depend on the treatment, such as changing a dog’s diet or flea treatments.
Ear Problems - Ear problems in dogs are quite common and there are multiple causes, including wax, mites and bacteria. The most common ear problem is excessive ear wax build up or ear mites. Some dog breeds are more susceptible to ear problems than others are, especially breeds with hairy inner ear flaps, like miniature poodles and schnauzers. Did you know that underlying food allergies is the actual cause of ear infections in around 18 to 20% of dogs who have regular ear infections! A dog’s ears should be cleaned and checked on a regular basis to prevent ear infections from occurring. A simple way to help keep your dog’s ears healthy is to keep the hair from blocking the ear’s opening. You could trim the hair to allow air to flow into the ear which will help prevent ear infections.
Your vet is in the best position to determine what is wrong with your dog’s ears and suggest the best treatment. Treatments usually include putting medicated drops in their ears and sometimes a vet will also give your dog an antibiotic. Always contact your vet before you treat your dogs ear infection as infections and treatments vary.
These are just a few of the common ailments that dogs tend to get at sometime in their lives. If you use preventive measures and keep an eye on your dog’s behaviour; you will be able to keep them healthy and happy for their lifetime. Lastly don’t forget pet insurance in case the unexpected happens!
Monday, February 15, 2010
Monday, February 8, 2010
Rampur Hound
Rampur is a hamlet between Bareilly and Delhi. His Royal Highness Ahmed Ali Khan Bahadur bred these dogs by combining the blood lines of very powerful but ferocious Tazi, brought in by the Afghans, and the English Greyhound that was more obedient but less resistant to the varying climatic conditions. He gave the name 'Rampur Hound' to the dogs he bred.
This hound is powerfully built with strong jaws. The skull is broad. A powerful dog can bring down a large bull. The hound also hunts vermin, deer and jackals.
Breed Standard
The males measure 60-75 cms in height. The females measure 55-60 cms in height .
They weigh about 27-30 kgs.
They maybe black, grey, brindle, fawn or white.
The breed loves human companionship, and is well adjusted to other dogs. It has clean habits. The may appear lazy but will charge if needed.
The front legs are straight, but the hind quarters are long muscular and powerful, wide and well let down stiffles. The feet have arched toes with strong claws.
General Description:
The length from the withers to the base of the tail is about 36", the chest is deep in front but not very wide with well sprung ribsr. The tail is long and tapering slightly curving upwards and carried low, it is about 24"-27" in length. The circumference of the neck is about 12" and it's long arched and muscular and rather broad where it joins the body. The length of the jaw is 9" and are poweful with a scissor bite.
The animals were very popular about 100 years back when the Pathan Traders used to carry them to Rajputana, Central India and lower Bengal.
Hunting: This breed was used as a popular hunter an appropriate day was chosen and intimated to all hunters. These people met befor sunrise, had breakfast, and went on to hunt. Some people beat the bushes, and once the game was sighted, the hounds were let loose. After the hunt the animals were taken to a pond or water source and given a bath to refresh them.
Raw Diet
More and more people are switching their dogs over to a raw diet. Eating fresh, raw, organic, whole foods provides a host of health benefits to your dog and puts him in a position of optimum performance. It is not unhealthy to feed your dog premium, high-quality, commercially produced kibble; but a raw diet is believed by many to be a great way to ensure a healthy diet for your dog. Before you make any major changes to your dog’s diet, however, you should consult your vet.
An inadequate diet can lead to all kinds of health problems, including weakness, fatigue, skin and coat disorders, arthritis, allergies, weight problems, immune deficiencies, low energy level and more. Furthermore, low-grade, commercial, cereal-style dog foods can actually contain hair, feathers, hooves, tumorous growths, and contaminated blood. Preparing your dog’s food at home from fresh, organic ingredients is one way to know exactly what your dog is eating.
In the wild, a dog or wolf will eat the stomach contents of his kill. This means wild dogs receive vegetables and grains as well as meat and bones, and are thus physiologically built to live off that diet. A proper raw diet should consist of at least fifty percent lean meat and bone. Dogs can eat raw chicken (and even the bones, but NEVER cooked bones), turkey, tripe, pork neck bones, lamb, beef heart, whole mackerel and various other meat products. These meats can be fed whole and will, without a doubt, put a smile on your pooch’s snout.
Veggies are harder to digest due to dogs’ short small intestine. The best way to feed your dog veggies and ensure they get the full benefit of their nutrients is to juice or puree them. This juice or puree can then be mixed with oats and served with whole meat, or mixed with ground meat. Carrots are especially appetizing and beneficial to your dog, as they contain vitamins A, B, C, D, E, G, and K, as well as potassium and calcium. Other fruits and veggies that are great for your dog include apples, kale, Swiss chard, parsley, celery, beets and alfalfa sprouts.
Your dog’s raw diet should also include a multi-vitamin and mineral supplement and flaxseed oil. Following this diet with the addition of supplements is sure to provide your dog with the most complete nutrition possible.
Benefits of a Raw Diet
Although there is a great deal of controversy surrounding the raw food issue, and only you and your vet can decide what’s right for your dog, these are the supposed benefits of feeding raw meat, bones and veggies to your dog.
-Smaller, less odorous waste.
-Mirrors how dogs eat in the wild, and thus what they are built to eat.
-More energy, less lethargy.
-Fewer food allergies.
-Longer lives.
-Better management of pregnancies.
-Higher survival rate for new puppies.
-Arthritis improvement.
-Weight control.
-Lowered incidence of diabetes.
-Cleaner teeth.
-No preservatives or fillers.
-Only “good” carbs.
-Fresher breath.
-Healthier skin and coat.
-Reduced “dog smell”.
-Improved anal gland issues.
-Stronger immune system.
An inadequate diet can lead to all kinds of health problems, including weakness, fatigue, skin and coat disorders, arthritis, allergies, weight problems, immune deficiencies, low energy level and more. Furthermore, low-grade, commercial, cereal-style dog foods can actually contain hair, feathers, hooves, tumorous growths, and contaminated blood. Preparing your dog’s food at home from fresh, organic ingredients is one way to know exactly what your dog is eating.
In the wild, a dog or wolf will eat the stomach contents of his kill. This means wild dogs receive vegetables and grains as well as meat and bones, and are thus physiologically built to live off that diet. A proper raw diet should consist of at least fifty percent lean meat and bone. Dogs can eat raw chicken (and even the bones, but NEVER cooked bones), turkey, tripe, pork neck bones, lamb, beef heart, whole mackerel and various other meat products. These meats can be fed whole and will, without a doubt, put a smile on your pooch’s snout.
Veggies are harder to digest due to dogs’ short small intestine. The best way to feed your dog veggies and ensure they get the full benefit of their nutrients is to juice or puree them. This juice or puree can then be mixed with oats and served with whole meat, or mixed with ground meat. Carrots are especially appetizing and beneficial to your dog, as they contain vitamins A, B, C, D, E, G, and K, as well as potassium and calcium. Other fruits and veggies that are great for your dog include apples, kale, Swiss chard, parsley, celery, beets and alfalfa sprouts.
Your dog’s raw diet should also include a multi-vitamin and mineral supplement and flaxseed oil. Following this diet with the addition of supplements is sure to provide your dog with the most complete nutrition possible.
Benefits of a Raw Diet
Although there is a great deal of controversy surrounding the raw food issue, and only you and your vet can decide what’s right for your dog, these are the supposed benefits of feeding raw meat, bones and veggies to your dog.
-Smaller, less odorous waste.
-Mirrors how dogs eat in the wild, and thus what they are built to eat.
-More energy, less lethargy.
-Fewer food allergies.
-Longer lives.
-Better management of pregnancies.
-Higher survival rate for new puppies.
-Arthritis improvement.
-Weight control.
-Lowered incidence of diabetes.
-Cleaner teeth.
-No preservatives or fillers.
-Only “good” carbs.
-Fresher breath.
-Healthier skin and coat.
-Reduced “dog smell”.
-Improved anal gland issues.
-Stronger immune system.
Overweight Dogs
The obesity of American dogs has reached an unforgivable level. Experts believe that 40% of our nation’s dogs are overweight. It is time that all pet owners take stock in their beloved furry companion’s health and get on top of this obesity epidemic. After all, our dogs aren’t going grocery shopping, or standing in front of the fridge trying to figure out what to snack on; they depend on us to provide them with healthy, nutritious food, and that is a serious responsibility.
How Can I Tell if My Dog’s Overweight?
The best way to get a feel for whether or not your dog needs to lose weight is to take him to the vet. Generally though, when you run your hand along your dog’s side, you should be able to feel his ribs with just a thin layer of fat over them. Viewed from the side, your dog’s stomach should tuck up behind the rib cage. Viewed from above your dog should have a discernable waist. Of course, every breed is different and has different ideal amounts of body fat, so your vet is your best way to know for sure. However, if you cannot feel your dog’s ribs, it is a safe assumption that he probably needs to lose some weight, and could benefit from a trip to the vet.
What’s so Bad About a Rollie Pollie Pooch?
Obesity in dogs, as in people, can cause a number of health issues. Overweight dogs as a whole live shorter, less healthy lives. All of the following health issues can be attributed to obesity:
-Decreased stamina
-Decline in liver function
-Intolerance to heat
-Higher risk of complications with anesthesia
-Digestive problems
-Joint damage, bone damage, and ligament damage
-Intervertebral disc disease
-Labored breathing
-Increased cancer risk
-Skin and coat issues
-Reproductive issues
-Decreased immune function
-Diabetes mellitus
-Heart disease
-High blood pressure
What Made My Dog Overweight?
There are some health issues that can cause weight gain. Your vet can rule out these conditions, and if your dog is afflicted with one of them, your vet can most likely treat the problem so you can pursue helping your pet to a healthier weight. Some of these conditions include hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease, insulinoma, pituitary gland abnormalities, and hypothalamic abnormalities.
Certain breeds are also predisposed to weight gain. These breeds include Labrador Retrievers, Dachshunds, Beagles, Cairn Terriers, Cocker Spaniels, Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs, Schipperkes and Bassett Hounds. This just means that these breeds are more likely to become obese, or gain weight more easily; it is not an excuse. Having an obese dog is not ok just because it is a breed more prone to the condition.
Most dogs, however, are obese just because they are taking in far more calories than they burn each day. Just as in people, the calories they consume but don’t burn are stored in their bodies as fat. Most overweight dogs are simply eating too much.
Contrary to popular belief, neutering and spaying does not cause a dog to gain weight. This surgical procedure does slow a dog’s metabolism, but that just means they need to eat less food so they won’t get fat.
Free feeding is a major cause of obesity in dogs. This is the act of leaving food out all day for your dog, and just refilling the bowl whenever it is empty. Most veterinarians consider it a bad idea to leave it up to Rover how much he eats each day. It is nearly impossible to monitor how much your dog is consuming with this feeding method, and most dogs will eat far more than they need to maintain a healthy weight.
Over-treating is another major cause of chubby pups. Sometimes owners over-treat because they feel guilty for not spending enough time with the dog, using yummy snacks as a form of affection. Other times they just can’t resist those big brown eyes. This becomes a problem when the snack of choice is an unhealthy one, like yummy bits of fat from a steak, or some potato chips or cheese. Often, dog owners forget to consider that these snacks are part of the total calories a dog consumes each day. If a dog is receiving the right amount of calories through the kibble in his bowl each day, then these snacks are taking his calorie total far too high. Also, if more than one member of the family is sneaking Fido snacks under the dinner table, the day-end calorie count can be truly astronomical, and it’s hard for any one member of the family to get a handle on why Fido’s getting so fat.
These decadent, high fat snacks can also cause your dog to turn his nose up at his real food. Lots of dogs are overweight because their owners have such a hard time getting them to eat their kibble that they are almost entirely sustained on table scraps. These dogs, in turn, beg more and more, because they are rewarded for their begging, and also because the low nutritional value of these snacks leaves them constantly craving more.
Dogs in multi-dog homes are at risk for becoming obese because of the competition factor. If they feel that their food supply could be threatened, they are going to focus more on food and make sure they scarf up every bit before anyone has a chance to take it away. A more dominant dog in the household might also consume other dog’s food as well as his own, leading to weight gain.
Certain mental states can help your dog pack on the pounds too. Just as humans eat out of boredom and stress, so do dogs. If Rover is getting into the garbage and eating all of last week’s leftovers, it might be because he’s looking for something entertaining to do or a way to work out some of his stress energy, and the tasty treats he finds therein are just a bonus.
The wrong food can also make dogs gain weight. High performance foods are made for dogs who get a lot of exercise, so giving this kind of food to your couch potato at home will definitely cause him to gain weight. Also, cheap, low quality dog foods are much higher in fillers than nutrients. So, your dog may be consuming tons of food because he craves balanced nutrition, and is basically just receiving carbs and a chubby tummy.
What Can I Do?
First, a vet trip is in order. Once your vet rules out all the disease and disorder-related reasons your dog could be overweight, you can get down to solving the problem at home. Your vet can also help you choose a premium, high quality dog food so your dog is getting plenty of nutrients without tons of filler.
Discuss your dog’s ability to exercise with your vet. If he is extremely overweight, you will want to start off slow, and keep a close eye on your dog, especially in warm weather. Your vet can advise how long and how far you should walk your dog to give him the exercise he needs without putting too much strain on his heart and lungs. Also, along with walking every day, you should get outside and play with your dog daily too. Games like fetch, Frisbee, hide and seek, and chasing games are great cardiovascular exercise for you and your dog, and they reduce stress and boredom for both of you. If you are not physically able to run around with your dog, find a buddy with a dog, or head to the dog park. Dogs make great exercise buddies for one another, and rarely just sit around together when they have the chance to play.
Make a note of your dog’s weight. Reduce his food intake by one third for two weeks. After the two weeks are up, weigh your dog again. If he has not lost weight, reduce his food by a third again and weigh him again in two weeks. Once you find an amount of food with which he is losing weight, even a little bit at a time, stick with it. Remember to consider any treats he’s receiving as rewards or as a part of training when you cut back his food supply.
Stop the free feeding. Get your dog into a routine of eating twice a day at the same time every day. This will not only help your dog to lose weight, but the routine will also help with other training issues, including housebreaking.
Sit your family down and discuss the problem. Make sure that everyone in the house understands that Fido is not allowed to have any table scraps or extra treats, and no one is to reward begging! Explain that this is a health concern for dear Fido, and as much as he wants that hunk of dinner roll, they would probably rather have him around for several more years than give in. Help everyone understand that food is not love and treats are not affection. If they really want to see his tail wag, they can take him for a walk, or play a game of fetch in the yard. If you and your family just can’t stand not giving Fido treats, try carrots, green beans, banana slices, unbuttered popcorn, or apple or orange slices.
If your dog has been spoiled to the point where he won’t eat dog food, all is not lost. Start by mixing his dry food with one of his favorite treats, and a little warm water to meld the tastes together. Over a couple of days, phase out the fatty treat and replace it with a couple of spoonfuls of a healthy, low fat canned dog food. You can keep this up forever if you don’t mind the extra hassle, or you can phase out the canned food over time. As long as no one in your home is sneaking Fido treats, he will get hungry, and he will eat dog food.
If food competition is contributing to your dog’s obesity, try feeding your dogs in different rooms, and not letting them out until they are both done with dinner.
We all know that losing weight is not easy. Dogs gain weight and become obese over time--they are not going to shed those pounds over night. Just remember to be patient and consistent, and don’t give in to those big brown eyes at dinner time.
How Can I Tell if My Dog’s Overweight?
The best way to get a feel for whether or not your dog needs to lose weight is to take him to the vet. Generally though, when you run your hand along your dog’s side, you should be able to feel his ribs with just a thin layer of fat over them. Viewed from the side, your dog’s stomach should tuck up behind the rib cage. Viewed from above your dog should have a discernable waist. Of course, every breed is different and has different ideal amounts of body fat, so your vet is your best way to know for sure. However, if you cannot feel your dog’s ribs, it is a safe assumption that he probably needs to lose some weight, and could benefit from a trip to the vet.
What’s so Bad About a Rollie Pollie Pooch?
Obesity in dogs, as in people, can cause a number of health issues. Overweight dogs as a whole live shorter, less healthy lives. All of the following health issues can be attributed to obesity:
-Decreased stamina
-Decline in liver function
-Intolerance to heat
-Higher risk of complications with anesthesia
-Digestive problems
-Joint damage, bone damage, and ligament damage
-Intervertebral disc disease
-Labored breathing
-Increased cancer risk
-Skin and coat issues
-Reproductive issues
-Decreased immune function
-Diabetes mellitus
-Heart disease
-High blood pressure
What Made My Dog Overweight?
There are some health issues that can cause weight gain. Your vet can rule out these conditions, and if your dog is afflicted with one of them, your vet can most likely treat the problem so you can pursue helping your pet to a healthier weight. Some of these conditions include hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease, insulinoma, pituitary gland abnormalities, and hypothalamic abnormalities.
Certain breeds are also predisposed to weight gain. These breeds include Labrador Retrievers, Dachshunds, Beagles, Cairn Terriers, Cocker Spaniels, Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs, Schipperkes and Bassett Hounds. This just means that these breeds are more likely to become obese, or gain weight more easily; it is not an excuse. Having an obese dog is not ok just because it is a breed more prone to the condition.
Most dogs, however, are obese just because they are taking in far more calories than they burn each day. Just as in people, the calories they consume but don’t burn are stored in their bodies as fat. Most overweight dogs are simply eating too much.
Contrary to popular belief, neutering and spaying does not cause a dog to gain weight. This surgical procedure does slow a dog’s metabolism, but that just means they need to eat less food so they won’t get fat.
Free feeding is a major cause of obesity in dogs. This is the act of leaving food out all day for your dog, and just refilling the bowl whenever it is empty. Most veterinarians consider it a bad idea to leave it up to Rover how much he eats each day. It is nearly impossible to monitor how much your dog is consuming with this feeding method, and most dogs will eat far more than they need to maintain a healthy weight.
Over-treating is another major cause of chubby pups. Sometimes owners over-treat because they feel guilty for not spending enough time with the dog, using yummy snacks as a form of affection. Other times they just can’t resist those big brown eyes. This becomes a problem when the snack of choice is an unhealthy one, like yummy bits of fat from a steak, or some potato chips or cheese. Often, dog owners forget to consider that these snacks are part of the total calories a dog consumes each day. If a dog is receiving the right amount of calories through the kibble in his bowl each day, then these snacks are taking his calorie total far too high. Also, if more than one member of the family is sneaking Fido snacks under the dinner table, the day-end calorie count can be truly astronomical, and it’s hard for any one member of the family to get a handle on why Fido’s getting so fat.
These decadent, high fat snacks can also cause your dog to turn his nose up at his real food. Lots of dogs are overweight because their owners have such a hard time getting them to eat their kibble that they are almost entirely sustained on table scraps. These dogs, in turn, beg more and more, because they are rewarded for their begging, and also because the low nutritional value of these snacks leaves them constantly craving more.
Dogs in multi-dog homes are at risk for becoming obese because of the competition factor. If they feel that their food supply could be threatened, they are going to focus more on food and make sure they scarf up every bit before anyone has a chance to take it away. A more dominant dog in the household might also consume other dog’s food as well as his own, leading to weight gain.
Certain mental states can help your dog pack on the pounds too. Just as humans eat out of boredom and stress, so do dogs. If Rover is getting into the garbage and eating all of last week’s leftovers, it might be because he’s looking for something entertaining to do or a way to work out some of his stress energy, and the tasty treats he finds therein are just a bonus.
The wrong food can also make dogs gain weight. High performance foods are made for dogs who get a lot of exercise, so giving this kind of food to your couch potato at home will definitely cause him to gain weight. Also, cheap, low quality dog foods are much higher in fillers than nutrients. So, your dog may be consuming tons of food because he craves balanced nutrition, and is basically just receiving carbs and a chubby tummy.
What Can I Do?
First, a vet trip is in order. Once your vet rules out all the disease and disorder-related reasons your dog could be overweight, you can get down to solving the problem at home. Your vet can also help you choose a premium, high quality dog food so your dog is getting plenty of nutrients without tons of filler.
Discuss your dog’s ability to exercise with your vet. If he is extremely overweight, you will want to start off slow, and keep a close eye on your dog, especially in warm weather. Your vet can advise how long and how far you should walk your dog to give him the exercise he needs without putting too much strain on his heart and lungs. Also, along with walking every day, you should get outside and play with your dog daily too. Games like fetch, Frisbee, hide and seek, and chasing games are great cardiovascular exercise for you and your dog, and they reduce stress and boredom for both of you. If you are not physically able to run around with your dog, find a buddy with a dog, or head to the dog park. Dogs make great exercise buddies for one another, and rarely just sit around together when they have the chance to play.
Make a note of your dog’s weight. Reduce his food intake by one third for two weeks. After the two weeks are up, weigh your dog again. If he has not lost weight, reduce his food by a third again and weigh him again in two weeks. Once you find an amount of food with which he is losing weight, even a little bit at a time, stick with it. Remember to consider any treats he’s receiving as rewards or as a part of training when you cut back his food supply.
Stop the free feeding. Get your dog into a routine of eating twice a day at the same time every day. This will not only help your dog to lose weight, but the routine will also help with other training issues, including housebreaking.
Sit your family down and discuss the problem. Make sure that everyone in the house understands that Fido is not allowed to have any table scraps or extra treats, and no one is to reward begging! Explain that this is a health concern for dear Fido, and as much as he wants that hunk of dinner roll, they would probably rather have him around for several more years than give in. Help everyone understand that food is not love and treats are not affection. If they really want to see his tail wag, they can take him for a walk, or play a game of fetch in the yard. If you and your family just can’t stand not giving Fido treats, try carrots, green beans, banana slices, unbuttered popcorn, or apple or orange slices.
If your dog has been spoiled to the point where he won’t eat dog food, all is not lost. Start by mixing his dry food with one of his favorite treats, and a little warm water to meld the tastes together. Over a couple of days, phase out the fatty treat and replace it with a couple of spoonfuls of a healthy, low fat canned dog food. You can keep this up forever if you don’t mind the extra hassle, or you can phase out the canned food over time. As long as no one in your home is sneaking Fido treats, he will get hungry, and he will eat dog food.
If food competition is contributing to your dog’s obesity, try feeding your dogs in different rooms, and not letting them out until they are both done with dinner.
We all know that losing weight is not easy. Dogs gain weight and become obese over time--they are not going to shed those pounds over night. Just remember to be patient and consistent, and don’t give in to those big brown eyes at dinner time.
Jumping Up
One of the most common and frustrating behavior issues in dogs is the problem of jumping-up. At best it’s annoying and leads to dirty paw prints on your clothes; but it can also result in injuries and even legal issues. Don’t worry though, with consistency and patience you can teach your dog the manners he’s missing.
Start young
Your precious little lab puppy probably looks just adorable pawing at your knees to welcome you when you get home from work. This will not be quite so cute when he weighs 80 pounds. If you never accept jumping-up, your dog will quickly learn that it is not ok. It will be much more difficult to make him understand that it’s a problem when he starts to get bigger and has already been jumping on you to your delight for six months.
Establish a routine with your dog from day one. Let him grow accustomed to the fact that when you come home he will not be acknowledged until he is calm and away from the door. He must learn early-on that he will not be rewarded with attention if he is jumping-up. When you do greet your dog, do so calmly and quietly. If you are energetic and excited, it will cue your dog to behave the same way. Take him for a nice, long walk twice a day. This will be his chance to run through all that extra energy.
Sit is an extremely important command to teach your dog, it is a foundation of control and leadership. If you train him well, you should be able to make him sit when you see that he is about to jump-up. Whenever he’s over-excited, tell him to sit and calmly praise him when he does.
Too Late
Has your dog already made a habit of jumping on you? Often jumping-up is just your dog’s way of excitedly greeting you, but it can also be a matter of dominance. One way dogs show their dominance over other dogs is to stand over them and put their paws on their backs. Your dog must understand that you are the alpha dog and this kind of dominant behavior is unacceptable. One easy way to exert dominance over your dog is at meal times. In packs, the alpha dog eats first and the others do not eat until he allows. When you feed your dog, make him sit and wait until you tell him it is ok to eat.
A common mistake that programs dogs to jump-up is the owner’s inadvertent positive reinforcement of bad behavior. If your dog greets you excitedly and jumps-up, and then you give him dinner or take him outside, he sees this as a reward. He will think that every time he gets excited and jumps-up, something good will happen. Instead, wait until he is calm and sitting to take him outside or feed him. He will associate being calm with a chance to play or eat.
Consistency with commands will help as you train your dog to not jump-up. Once you have established that jumping-up is not ok, you should just be able to tell him to sit, but you’ll need a command to stop the behavior as well. Most people use “off” but any word will work just as well, as long as you, your family, and your visitors consistently use the same command.
Teaching Off
There are many schools of thought concerning the best way to teach your dog an off command. The less humane and more controversial methods have been left out here, so any of the following have the potential to work for you. You must remember that all dogs are different, no one method is right for every dog.
The Forward Step
Whenever your dog jumps-up, step into the jump as you say “off” and then “sit”. Dogs are not comfortable standing on two legs and have a hard time maintaining balance. When you step into his jump you will throw him off balance, creating an uncomfortable experience. If you do this every time your dog jumps-up, he will eventually associate it with being uncomfortable and the behavior will stop.
The Dance
When your dog jumps-up, quickly grab his paws and hold him upright repeating your off command as you walk toward him, this forces him to sit or walk backwards. Again, dogs are not comfortable standing on just their back legs, so for him this is an unfavorable result. If he thinks that every time he jumps-up he will be held in that position, he eventually won’t jump-up anymore.
The Leash Step
Start with your dog sitting in front of you with a collar and leash on. Stand on the leash so that there is enough leash to loosely dangle from his neck, but not enough that he can jump-up without the leash pulling him down. Do not use a choke chain. Stand up straight and hold a toy or treat at chest height. Use your “so happy to see you” voice and excitedly talk to your dog. When he tries to jump-up to play or get the toy or treat, use your off command and tell him to sit. The leash will automatically correct him. The more you do this, the more your dog will associate the uncomfortable feeling with jumping.
The Cold Shoulder
When your dog jumps-up, use your off command, turn your back to him, walk away, and ignore him completely. If he runs in front of you and continues to jump, use your off command again, and continue to turn away. Once he has calmed down and is behaving properly, praise him. This shows him that he will not be acknowledged until he is calm, and that calm behavior is rewarded with praise.
A Word about the Knee Method
There are many who feel that the best way to teach a dog that jumping-up is not ok is the knee method. With this method, whenever your dog jumps-up, you use your off command and lift your knee so your dog runs into it with his chest. This will throw him off balance and is an unpleasant experience, which he will associate with jumping-up. It is important to note that you are not kneeing your dog, just lifting your knee. The intensity of contact relies completely on your dog’s forward motion, not the movement of your knee. This can work well, but it can also result in injury--Your knee could collide with your dog’s face or throat, so it is not recommended.
Every dog has within him a calm, submissive, well mannered pooch. It is your job to bring out the best in him. If you have been rewarding jumping-up behavior for years, it will take significantly longer than training a puppy not to jump, but it is still wholly possible. Just keep in mind that the two most important things to remember in dog training are patience and consistency.
Start young
Your precious little lab puppy probably looks just adorable pawing at your knees to welcome you when you get home from work. This will not be quite so cute when he weighs 80 pounds. If you never accept jumping-up, your dog will quickly learn that it is not ok. It will be much more difficult to make him understand that it’s a problem when he starts to get bigger and has already been jumping on you to your delight for six months.
Establish a routine with your dog from day one. Let him grow accustomed to the fact that when you come home he will not be acknowledged until he is calm and away from the door. He must learn early-on that he will not be rewarded with attention if he is jumping-up. When you do greet your dog, do so calmly and quietly. If you are energetic and excited, it will cue your dog to behave the same way. Take him for a nice, long walk twice a day. This will be his chance to run through all that extra energy.
Sit is an extremely important command to teach your dog, it is a foundation of control and leadership. If you train him well, you should be able to make him sit when you see that he is about to jump-up. Whenever he’s over-excited, tell him to sit and calmly praise him when he does.
Too Late
Has your dog already made a habit of jumping on you? Often jumping-up is just your dog’s way of excitedly greeting you, but it can also be a matter of dominance. One way dogs show their dominance over other dogs is to stand over them and put their paws on their backs. Your dog must understand that you are the alpha dog and this kind of dominant behavior is unacceptable. One easy way to exert dominance over your dog is at meal times. In packs, the alpha dog eats first and the others do not eat until he allows. When you feed your dog, make him sit and wait until you tell him it is ok to eat.
A common mistake that programs dogs to jump-up is the owner’s inadvertent positive reinforcement of bad behavior. If your dog greets you excitedly and jumps-up, and then you give him dinner or take him outside, he sees this as a reward. He will think that every time he gets excited and jumps-up, something good will happen. Instead, wait until he is calm and sitting to take him outside or feed him. He will associate being calm with a chance to play or eat.
Consistency with commands will help as you train your dog to not jump-up. Once you have established that jumping-up is not ok, you should just be able to tell him to sit, but you’ll need a command to stop the behavior as well. Most people use “off” but any word will work just as well, as long as you, your family, and your visitors consistently use the same command.
Teaching Off
There are many schools of thought concerning the best way to teach your dog an off command. The less humane and more controversial methods have been left out here, so any of the following have the potential to work for you. You must remember that all dogs are different, no one method is right for every dog.
The Forward Step
Whenever your dog jumps-up, step into the jump as you say “off” and then “sit”. Dogs are not comfortable standing on two legs and have a hard time maintaining balance. When you step into his jump you will throw him off balance, creating an uncomfortable experience. If you do this every time your dog jumps-up, he will eventually associate it with being uncomfortable and the behavior will stop.
The Dance
When your dog jumps-up, quickly grab his paws and hold him upright repeating your off command as you walk toward him, this forces him to sit or walk backwards. Again, dogs are not comfortable standing on just their back legs, so for him this is an unfavorable result. If he thinks that every time he jumps-up he will be held in that position, he eventually won’t jump-up anymore.
The Leash Step
Start with your dog sitting in front of you with a collar and leash on. Stand on the leash so that there is enough leash to loosely dangle from his neck, but not enough that he can jump-up without the leash pulling him down. Do not use a choke chain. Stand up straight and hold a toy or treat at chest height. Use your “so happy to see you” voice and excitedly talk to your dog. When he tries to jump-up to play or get the toy or treat, use your off command and tell him to sit. The leash will automatically correct him. The more you do this, the more your dog will associate the uncomfortable feeling with jumping.
The Cold Shoulder
When your dog jumps-up, use your off command, turn your back to him, walk away, and ignore him completely. If he runs in front of you and continues to jump, use your off command again, and continue to turn away. Once he has calmed down and is behaving properly, praise him. This shows him that he will not be acknowledged until he is calm, and that calm behavior is rewarded with praise.
A Word about the Knee Method
There are many who feel that the best way to teach a dog that jumping-up is not ok is the knee method. With this method, whenever your dog jumps-up, you use your off command and lift your knee so your dog runs into it with his chest. This will throw him off balance and is an unpleasant experience, which he will associate with jumping-up. It is important to note that you are not kneeing your dog, just lifting your knee. The intensity of contact relies completely on your dog’s forward motion, not the movement of your knee. This can work well, but it can also result in injury--Your knee could collide with your dog’s face or throat, so it is not recommended.
Every dog has within him a calm, submissive, well mannered pooch. It is your job to bring out the best in him. If you have been rewarding jumping-up behavior for years, it will take significantly longer than training a puppy not to jump, but it is still wholly possible. Just keep in mind that the two most important things to remember in dog training are patience and consistency.
Choosing the Perfect Dog Bed
Dogs seek a comfy place to catch their Z’s just like we do, and often this is at the expense of our good night’s sleep. Purchasing your pooch a bed of his own will help to keep him out of yours, and if you pick a bed that your dog will really use, it will keep him and his hair off the rest of your furniture as well. Even if your dog already stays off the furniture, a bed will get him off the cold, hard floor, help him sleep better and longer, and protect his joints as he ages. A good dog bed will also help keep your large-breed dog from developing unsightly and uncomfortable elbow calluses.
But with all the dog beds on the market today, how do you know which one is right for your pup? There are several factors to consider that will help you find a bed your dog will not only use, but one he will adopt as his favorite comfy spot. To find the perfect bed for your pooch, consider why you’re in the market for a dog bed, how your dog prefers to sleep, your dog’s size, and your dog’s special needs.
Why Does My Dog Need a Bed?
Is your dog always outside? A dog house provides a good amount of necessary shelter from the elements, but even in the height of summer there can be chilly nights. Ensure your dog’s comfort out in the back yard with an outdoor heated dog bed.
Does your dog spend a lot of time in his crate? Crate floors are hard and cold, which doesn’t exactly create the coziest environment. While crate training, use a blanket or towel for doggy’s comfort--There will be accidents and it is a lot easier to take a soiled towel out and throw a new one in than to wait until a bed is washed and dried; or you can use a water-proof mat, which can just be wiped down. Once your pup is accident-free, however, a crate mat is a great way to make his crate feel more like home. Older dogs and thin or especially bony dogs will benefit greatly from a crate bed or mat.
Are you constantly on the road? You can give your dog the same comfort he would have at home with a travel bed. Sure, you can throw any dog bed in the back of your car, but who has space for a big, plush bed when the car’s already packed tight? Travel beds fold or roll up to next to nothing so you can always have a comfy spot and a piece of home handy for your jet-setting hound.
Does your dog just insist on taking over your bed? Are you tired of the wear, tear, and dog hair on your furniture? Don’t worry; there are plenty of options for you.
Observe Your Dog
Take note of where and how your pup most often catches his Z’s. This will be your biggest clue to what kind of bed your dog would most appreciate.
Do you often find your dog laying smack dab in the middle of your pillow? Does he curl up dead-center on couch cushions and comfy chairs? Then a pillow bed is a good choice. Pillow beds come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are extremely comfortable, especially for the little dog who thinks he’s a little prince. These beds are not so great for dogs with orthopedic issues, as they do not provide much support. They are, however, fantastic for miniature and toy breeds.
Do you tend to wake up to find that your dog has shimmied himself all the way under the covers? Is it not always apparent that the pile of blankets on the couch is actually your carefully concealed canine? Does your pooch live to snuggle? A nest bed is the right fit for your dog. Nest beds offer your dog a warm and snuggly place to burrow without pulling your throws and stealing the blankets from you at night. They offer comfort and security and are perfect for burrowing breeds like Beagles, Dachshunds and Jack Russell Terriers. These beds are a little harder to get into and out of, and are thus not ideal for older or injured dogs.
Does your dog think he’s people? Do you often open your eyes in the morning to see your pooch looking right back at you with his head on your pillow? Does he like to curl up snug in the corner of the couch? When you’re hanging out with him, watching TV, does he like to snuggle right up against you? Your dog needs a bolster bed. These beds have a firm foam or plush rim that your pooch can snuggle-up against or use as a pillow. Bolster beds come in lots of different designs and orthopedic varieties are available for dogs with arthritis, and older and injured dogs. Otherwise, though, they are great for any breed and any size dog.
Have you tried a pillow, bolster, or nest bed before and your dog still preferred the couch? Is it important to you to maintain a clean design aesthetic in your home? Try a furniture bed. These beds are made to look like real couches and beds, just smaller. They are attractive and durable and are raised to keep your dog out of the bugs and dirt on the floor and away from chilly drafts. There is a furniture bed to match any home style and they are sure to only improve the look of your living room. These beds are not suggested for dogs with arthritis or hip problems as they have to jump up to climb in.
Has your older, injured, arthritic, or overweight dog stopped jumping into bed or on the couch? Is your dog suffering from hip dysplasia or other joint issues? Is your dog skinny or bony? An orthopedic bed is ideal for these issues. Orthopedic beds are filled with firm foam made to evenly distribute weight, lessening stress on joints. These beds prevent pressure sores and calluses and eliminate pressure points, stiffness, and soreness. They are easy to climb into and out of which lessens the stress on your ageing dog’s back and hips. Orthopedic beds are marvelous for greyhounds and whippets, working dogs, ageing dogs, and really, any dog.
Does your tiny dog tend to shiver? Does your pooch insist on sleeping directly between you and your partner for the cozy warmth? Try a heated bed. Heated beds come in indoor and outdoor varieties and are ideal for hairless, short haired and small dogs. They are also wonderful for working dogs, and dogs recovering from injury, as the warmth soothes tired joints and muscles.
Is your dog’s favorite spot in the house a cool stretch of tile, or on top of an AC vent? Is your dog always getting overheated? Does your working dog need a cool spot to rest after the daily grind? Does your dog tend to turn his nose up at other dog beds? Try a cooling bed. Many of these beds are filled with water or gel to keep them cool; and others are made of materials that allow plenty of air flow and draw the heat away from your pooch. If your dog is a floor-sleeper and could use a little cushioning without the warmth, a cooling bed is just perfect. These beds are superb for long or thick haired dogs, and breeds that are easily overheated, like the bulldog.
Does your dog take up more space in the bed than you do? Are you forever coming home to see a stretched out, belly up dog on your couch? A mat or pad is ideal for your dog. They provide maximum space to spread out and are perfect for large dogs that like to sprawl. These beds are great for labs and other large dogs. They don’t require any climbing so they are great for older and injured dogs too.
How Do I Measure My Dog For a Bed?
Choosing the right size bed is important. You want to purchase a quality, long-lasting bed, which is a good investment. However, if you chose the wrong size, you’ll have wasted your money because your dog won’t use it.
Don’t even worry about dragging the cloth tape measure out of your sewing kit, you can just use a piece of string to measure your dog, and measure the string when you’re done. Measure your dog when he is lying down. Lay the string along your dog’s back from the tip of his tail to the tip of his nose. Add ten to twelve inches to this length and you will have the necessary length for your dog’s bed. If your dog really likes to stretch out, add another two or four inches.
Other Things to Consider
Does your dog have an uncontrollable urge to roll in the mud? Make sure the bed you purchase has a removable, machine washable cover. Many beds have zip-off covers so they can be easily removed and thrown in the washer. Also consider purchasing a second cover so your dog’s bed is always available, even when one cover is in the wash.
Does your dog scratch and claw at his bed to get the filling in just the right places? He needs a bed with a durable, thick fabric cover; the best being ripstop nylon. Leather beds are cool, comfortable, and long lasting, but not ideal for scratchy dogs.
Is your dog a flopper? Does he enter the room and collapse dramatically onto his bed? Does he dream big, with lots of flailing about? Is your dog’s bed going to sit on tile or hardwood? He should have a bed with a non-skid bottom. This will keep the bed where it belongs and it won’t scoot out from under your dog while he’s chasing rabbits in dream land.
If you take the time to get to know your dog and his sleeping habits, you’ll have no trouble picking out the best bed for your best friend. If your dog is accustomed to sleeping with you, and doesn’t take immediately to his new bed, be patient. Praise him when he lays in it, and put a treat or toy in it at bedtime to encourage him to use it. It’ll only be a matter of time before he figures out that you bought his bed with his best interests in mind.
But with all the dog beds on the market today, how do you know which one is right for your pup? There are several factors to consider that will help you find a bed your dog will not only use, but one he will adopt as his favorite comfy spot. To find the perfect bed for your pooch, consider why you’re in the market for a dog bed, how your dog prefers to sleep, your dog’s size, and your dog’s special needs.
Why Does My Dog Need a Bed?
Is your dog always outside? A dog house provides a good amount of necessary shelter from the elements, but even in the height of summer there can be chilly nights. Ensure your dog’s comfort out in the back yard with an outdoor heated dog bed.
Does your dog spend a lot of time in his crate? Crate floors are hard and cold, which doesn’t exactly create the coziest environment. While crate training, use a blanket or towel for doggy’s comfort--There will be accidents and it is a lot easier to take a soiled towel out and throw a new one in than to wait until a bed is washed and dried; or you can use a water-proof mat, which can just be wiped down. Once your pup is accident-free, however, a crate mat is a great way to make his crate feel more like home. Older dogs and thin or especially bony dogs will benefit greatly from a crate bed or mat.
Are you constantly on the road? You can give your dog the same comfort he would have at home with a travel bed. Sure, you can throw any dog bed in the back of your car, but who has space for a big, plush bed when the car’s already packed tight? Travel beds fold or roll up to next to nothing so you can always have a comfy spot and a piece of home handy for your jet-setting hound.
Does your dog just insist on taking over your bed? Are you tired of the wear, tear, and dog hair on your furniture? Don’t worry; there are plenty of options for you.
Observe Your Dog
Take note of where and how your pup most often catches his Z’s. This will be your biggest clue to what kind of bed your dog would most appreciate.
Do you often find your dog laying smack dab in the middle of your pillow? Does he curl up dead-center on couch cushions and comfy chairs? Then a pillow bed is a good choice. Pillow beds come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are extremely comfortable, especially for the little dog who thinks he’s a little prince. These beds are not so great for dogs with orthopedic issues, as they do not provide much support. They are, however, fantastic for miniature and toy breeds.
Do you tend to wake up to find that your dog has shimmied himself all the way under the covers? Is it not always apparent that the pile of blankets on the couch is actually your carefully concealed canine? Does your pooch live to snuggle? A nest bed is the right fit for your dog. Nest beds offer your dog a warm and snuggly place to burrow without pulling your throws and stealing the blankets from you at night. They offer comfort and security and are perfect for burrowing breeds like Beagles, Dachshunds and Jack Russell Terriers. These beds are a little harder to get into and out of, and are thus not ideal for older or injured dogs.
Does your dog think he’s people? Do you often open your eyes in the morning to see your pooch looking right back at you with his head on your pillow? Does he like to curl up snug in the corner of the couch? When you’re hanging out with him, watching TV, does he like to snuggle right up against you? Your dog needs a bolster bed. These beds have a firm foam or plush rim that your pooch can snuggle-up against or use as a pillow. Bolster beds come in lots of different designs and orthopedic varieties are available for dogs with arthritis, and older and injured dogs. Otherwise, though, they are great for any breed and any size dog.
Have you tried a pillow, bolster, or nest bed before and your dog still preferred the couch? Is it important to you to maintain a clean design aesthetic in your home? Try a furniture bed. These beds are made to look like real couches and beds, just smaller. They are attractive and durable and are raised to keep your dog out of the bugs and dirt on the floor and away from chilly drafts. There is a furniture bed to match any home style and they are sure to only improve the look of your living room. These beds are not suggested for dogs with arthritis or hip problems as they have to jump up to climb in.
Has your older, injured, arthritic, or overweight dog stopped jumping into bed or on the couch? Is your dog suffering from hip dysplasia or other joint issues? Is your dog skinny or bony? An orthopedic bed is ideal for these issues. Orthopedic beds are filled with firm foam made to evenly distribute weight, lessening stress on joints. These beds prevent pressure sores and calluses and eliminate pressure points, stiffness, and soreness. They are easy to climb into and out of which lessens the stress on your ageing dog’s back and hips. Orthopedic beds are marvelous for greyhounds and whippets, working dogs, ageing dogs, and really, any dog.
Does your tiny dog tend to shiver? Does your pooch insist on sleeping directly between you and your partner for the cozy warmth? Try a heated bed. Heated beds come in indoor and outdoor varieties and are ideal for hairless, short haired and small dogs. They are also wonderful for working dogs, and dogs recovering from injury, as the warmth soothes tired joints and muscles.
Is your dog’s favorite spot in the house a cool stretch of tile, or on top of an AC vent? Is your dog always getting overheated? Does your working dog need a cool spot to rest after the daily grind? Does your dog tend to turn his nose up at other dog beds? Try a cooling bed. Many of these beds are filled with water or gel to keep them cool; and others are made of materials that allow plenty of air flow and draw the heat away from your pooch. If your dog is a floor-sleeper and could use a little cushioning without the warmth, a cooling bed is just perfect. These beds are superb for long or thick haired dogs, and breeds that are easily overheated, like the bulldog.
Does your dog take up more space in the bed than you do? Are you forever coming home to see a stretched out, belly up dog on your couch? A mat or pad is ideal for your dog. They provide maximum space to spread out and are perfect for large dogs that like to sprawl. These beds are great for labs and other large dogs. They don’t require any climbing so they are great for older and injured dogs too.
How Do I Measure My Dog For a Bed?
Choosing the right size bed is important. You want to purchase a quality, long-lasting bed, which is a good investment. However, if you chose the wrong size, you’ll have wasted your money because your dog won’t use it.
Don’t even worry about dragging the cloth tape measure out of your sewing kit, you can just use a piece of string to measure your dog, and measure the string when you’re done. Measure your dog when he is lying down. Lay the string along your dog’s back from the tip of his tail to the tip of his nose. Add ten to twelve inches to this length and you will have the necessary length for your dog’s bed. If your dog really likes to stretch out, add another two or four inches.
Other Things to Consider
Does your dog have an uncontrollable urge to roll in the mud? Make sure the bed you purchase has a removable, machine washable cover. Many beds have zip-off covers so they can be easily removed and thrown in the washer. Also consider purchasing a second cover so your dog’s bed is always available, even when one cover is in the wash.
Does your dog scratch and claw at his bed to get the filling in just the right places? He needs a bed with a durable, thick fabric cover; the best being ripstop nylon. Leather beds are cool, comfortable, and long lasting, but not ideal for scratchy dogs.
Is your dog a flopper? Does he enter the room and collapse dramatically onto his bed? Does he dream big, with lots of flailing about? Is your dog’s bed going to sit on tile or hardwood? He should have a bed with a non-skid bottom. This will keep the bed where it belongs and it won’t scoot out from under your dog while he’s chasing rabbits in dream land.
If you take the time to get to know your dog and his sleeping habits, you’ll have no trouble picking out the best bed for your best friend. If your dog is accustomed to sleeping with you, and doesn’t take immediately to his new bed, be patient. Praise him when he lays in it, and put a treat or toy in it at bedtime to encourage him to use it. It’ll only be a matter of time before he figures out that you bought his bed with his best interests in mind.
Dog Toy Maintenance
Dog toys are not just a luxury for your dog, they are necessary. They help fight boredom and separation anxiety, they help your dog get the exercise he needs, they are a good replacement for improper behavior, and they are fun! However, you have to keep an eye on your dog’s toys so they do not become hazardous to your dog’s health.
Make it a habit to keep all your dog’s toys in one place, so you can periodically examine them for wear and cleanliness. You can even teach your dog a “put your toys away” command, which is a fun way for you and your dog to tidy the house together. A dog Toy Box is great for this.
Toys to Toss
Regularly inspect your dog’s toys for signs of excessive wear. Any toys which are significantly smaller than they were when they were new should be thrown out, as should any toys which your dog has been obviously eating. Stuffed toys that have been ripped apart should be thrown out, as should toys with dangling string or small parts. Toys with an especially foul odor, even after washing in hot water should be tossed as well.
Cleaning Nylon and Rubber Toys
You can use a Toy Cleaning Brush or old toothbrush to remove excess grime from nylon and rubber toys, and you can wash them by hand with dish soap and hot water. You can also throw these toys in the dishwasher on the hottest cycle with no detergent. The hot water and pressure will remove grime and sterilize the toy. Check the toy’s packaging, or contact the manufacturer to be sure it is safe to wash in the dishwasher.
Cleaning Stuffable Toys
Your dog’s Kongs and other stuffable toys should be washed after every time you stuff them with food. Food particles work their way in to all the nooks and crannies of these toys and can harbor tons of dangerous bacteria. Use dish soap, hot water and a toy cleaning brush or old toothbrush to de-grime your dog’s treat toys. Most of these toys can be washed on the top rack in your dishwasher as well, which will truly sanitize the toy. Check the toy’s packaging, or contact the manufacturer to be sure it is safe to wash in the dishwasher.
Cleaning Soft/Plush Toys
Soft toys, like rope toys can also be put in the dishwasher on the hot cycle. You can sterilize them even more thoroughly by wetting them and putting them in the microwave for a full minute. Be careful removing these toys from the microwave; they will be extremely hot. Again, check the toy’s packaging, or contact the manufacturer to be sure it is safe to wash in the dishwasher or microwave.
Most stuffed animal toys can be put in the washing machine, and some can even be put in the dryer. My personal principle for my dog’s stuffed toys is, if it’s not sturdy enough to hold up in the washer and dryer, it isn’t sturdy enough for my Beagle anyway.
Make it a habit to keep all your dog’s toys in one place, so you can periodically examine them for wear and cleanliness. You can even teach your dog a “put your toys away” command, which is a fun way for you and your dog to tidy the house together. A dog Toy Box is great for this.
Toys to Toss
Regularly inspect your dog’s toys for signs of excessive wear. Any toys which are significantly smaller than they were when they were new should be thrown out, as should any toys which your dog has been obviously eating. Stuffed toys that have been ripped apart should be thrown out, as should toys with dangling string or small parts. Toys with an especially foul odor, even after washing in hot water should be tossed as well.
Cleaning Nylon and Rubber Toys
You can use a Toy Cleaning Brush or old toothbrush to remove excess grime from nylon and rubber toys, and you can wash them by hand with dish soap and hot water. You can also throw these toys in the dishwasher on the hottest cycle with no detergent. The hot water and pressure will remove grime and sterilize the toy. Check the toy’s packaging, or contact the manufacturer to be sure it is safe to wash in the dishwasher.
Cleaning Stuffable Toys
Your dog’s Kongs and other stuffable toys should be washed after every time you stuff them with food. Food particles work their way in to all the nooks and crannies of these toys and can harbor tons of dangerous bacteria. Use dish soap, hot water and a toy cleaning brush or old toothbrush to de-grime your dog’s treat toys. Most of these toys can be washed on the top rack in your dishwasher as well, which will truly sanitize the toy. Check the toy’s packaging, or contact the manufacturer to be sure it is safe to wash in the dishwasher.
Cleaning Soft/Plush Toys
Soft toys, like rope toys can also be put in the dishwasher on the hot cycle. You can sterilize them even more thoroughly by wetting them and putting them in the microwave for a full minute. Be careful removing these toys from the microwave; they will be extremely hot. Again, check the toy’s packaging, or contact the manufacturer to be sure it is safe to wash in the dishwasher or microwave.
Most stuffed animal toys can be put in the washing machine, and some can even be put in the dryer. My personal principle for my dog’s stuffed toys is, if it’s not sturdy enough to hold up in the washer and dryer, it isn’t sturdy enough for my Beagle anyway.
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Greyhound
Greyhound Temperament
The Greyhound is an agile, graceful, and determined dog, and this breed is best known for its racing abilities and is a racetrack dog. Friendly and gentle yet lively and fun, the Greyhound is a sweet and sensitive creature, and enjoys the peaceful life but also enjoys the companionship of his loved ones. This said, the Greyhound is not a clingy dog and is independent, serious, and sensible. These docile dogs are the fastest of all the breeds, and will need to be given the space to run a few times each week. However, the exercise requirements for the breed are not overly excessive, and the Greyhound will enjoys spending time relaxing providing he gets the chance to run in a safe area on a regular basis.
The Greyhound gets along well with children, although he is best around older and more considerate children. He also tends to get along okay with other animals, although he can be a chaser when it comes to smaller dogs and other small animals - early socialization is recommended. With strangers the Greyhound can be quite reserved yet polite. The Greyhound is a dog that is best suited to a peaceful environment, and although effective training is important owners should be calm and positive with this breed and never demanding or harsh. One thing to watch out for with the Greyhound is his tendency to steal toys and food.
Greyhound Appearance
The Greyhound is a large, svelte, and very graceful dog, and has a long, thin muzzle and an intelligent expression. The coat of the Greyhound is fine and close fitting, and the coloring can vary and includes brindle, white, fawn, cream, blue, and black. The weight of the Greyhound is 55-65 pounds for females and 65-80 pounds for males. The height of these dogs is around 26-30 inches.
Greyhound Grooming
The grooming requirements for the Greyhound are low, which is ideal for those with time restrictions - an occasional brushing of the coat will keep it clean and sleek.
Greyhound Health Problems and Life Expectancy
The lifespan of the Greyhound is around 9-14 years, and there are a number of health problems that have been associated with this breed. Some of the health issues to look out for include thyroid problems, bloat, PRA, digestive problems, bleeding disorders, and allergies to drugs and chemicals. The parents of the Greyhound puppy should have CERF certificates.
Greyhound History
The Greyhound originates from Egypt, and his ancestry dates back to the days of Ancient Egypt. The breed was used to hunt large animals such as deer and wolves. These days, the Greyhound makes for a good family pet and is also used for racing. The breed was registered with the AKC in 1885.
Neapolitan Mastiff
BREED GROUP: Working
WEIGHT: 165 lbs
HEIGHT: Male: 26-30; Female: 24-28 inches
COLOR(S): blue, black and sometimes chocolate
Neapolitan Mastiff Temperament
The Neapolitan Mastiff is a very loyal, devoted, and protective dog, making him the ideal choice for watchdog and guard dog duties. These dogs will defend their loved ones to the end, and have plenty of courage and determination, along with the size and brawn to back it up. The Neapolitan Mastiff will shower love and affection on his family, and may bond more closely with one particular person. This is not the dog for those that cannot commit to a pet, as he needs attention and affection from his owner. The Neapolitan Mastiff should be socialized early on in order to promote stability, and to reduce the risk of timidity or aggression. Training can be difficult, as the Neapolitan Mastiff makes up his own mind and is very independent. These dogs need a confident and assertive owner, and therefore are best suited to those with experience of dog ownership and training.
The fiercely protective nature of the Neapolitan Mastiff means that he will be naturally wary around strangers. These dogs get on well with children when brought up with them, and can get on well with other family pets with early socialization. However, they can be dog aggressive with same sex dogs. These huge dogs do not like strenuous exercise, but regular moderate exercise is important for his health and fitness. Plenty of space is needed, so this is not the right dog for apartment life. A spacious, safe, and secured area should be provided for the dog to enjoy fresh air and exercise. These dogs are droolers and snorers, so if you are a house-proud person or you enjoy total peace and quiet, you may want to think carefully before opting for the Neapolitan Mastiff. The Neapolitan Mastiff is very intelligent and learns very quickly.
Neapolitan Mastiff Appearance
The Neapolitan Mastiff is a giant of a dog, and has a very muscular and rugged build. His huge face has drooping jowls, and this gives him a grumpy expression, which coupled with his size would put off the bravest of intruders. The coat of the Neapolitan Mastiff is close fitting, short, and sleek, and the coloring includes gray, blue, mahogany, tawny, or black, sometimes with brindling. The weight of the Neapolitan Mastiff is around 110-134 pounds for females, and 133-160 pounds for males. The height is around 23-28 inches for females, and 25-30 inches for males.
Neapolitan Mastiff Grooming
The Neapolitan Mastiff is a low maintenance dog when it comes to grooming, although cleaning up the drool could be a different matter. His coat needs to brushed occasionally in order to keep it looking sleek and in good condition. These dogs are also low shedders, and therefore may be suited to allergy sufferers.
Neapolitan Mastiff Health Problems and Life Expectancy
The life expectancy of the Neapolitan Mastiff is short compared to many smaller breeds, and these dogs tend to live to around 8-10 years of age. There are a number of health problems associated with this Neapolitan Mastiff, and this includes OCD, thyroid problems, bloat, entropion, heart disorders, HD and elbow dysplasia, heatstroke, and sensitivity to chemicals and drugs. The parents of the Neapolitan Mastiff puppy should have OFA certificates.
Neapolitan Mastiff History
The Neapolitan Mastiff originates from Italy, and has an extremely long history. The breed almost faced extinction after the Second World War, but has now regained popularity in its native country as well as in America. The breed was registered with the AKC in 2001.
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